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AP — Johanne Defay of France was devastated when the mega sponsor Roxy dropped her right before she became a pro surfer in , shattering her confidence and threatening her career altogether. The mental, financial and logistical roadblocks for women in surfing date back centuries. Hawaiians who invented the sport treated it as an egalitarian national pastime that all genders, ages and social classes enjoyed, according to Isaiah Helekunihi Walker, a Hawaii surfing historian. Though locals largely defied the colonizers, female surfers saw their ranks shrink disproportionately. Moore is 28 now and has spoken openly about starving herself as a teenager, only to binge eat later, and once even trying to force herself to throw up.

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